Build Instructions v13.04
- metric hex keys (preferably ball-point)
- screw drivers: medium sized Phillips, tiny flat head
- pliers and side cutter
- utility knife, the snap-off kind
- metric caliper and ruler
- soldering iron
- hot glue gun
- heat gun
- power drill and drill bits: M3, M5, M6, M16 (or 5/8")
- countersinking bit (90deg)
- digital multimeter (measuring current, connectivity)
- Dremel (optionally)
- Follow the CAD model. It's most up-to-date (images are often outdated).
- In the CAD model use the Distance/Measurement tool to get all the positional specs you need.
- Use the BOM's by-subsystem view to get details on the parts.
- Think ahead when planing the next steps and familiarize yourself with all the parts (esp. screw sizes).
- Try to keep frame tolerances under 0.5mm (0.02") and build on a flat surface.
- T-slot nuts (post-assembly) may turn in the slot during assembly. By loosening and re-tightening this can be prevented. It takes a couple of minutes to get the hang of this. which makes the connection a bit more prone to vibration
- Tighten frame screws well but not brutally tight (tslot nuts can break at excessive torque).
- Any screws attaching acrylic parts must be lightly tightened. Otherwise the acrylic will crack (either right away or after some time).
- When you run into problems consult the mailing list. A good description of what you need help with (possibly also some images) will go a long way for getting good answers.
11. frame panels
- Modified on 1 May 2013 by stefan